Famous Forts - Northern Areas of Pakistan

FAMOUS FORTS - Northern Areas

Baltit Fort is an ancient fort in the Hunza valley in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Founded in the 8th CE, it has been on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative list since 2004.

Historical Background

In olden times a number of small independent states existed in the history of Northern Areas of Pakistan. Among them Hunza and Nager were the traditional rival states, situated on opposite sides of the Hunza (kanjut) river. The rulers of these two states, known as Thámo / Mirs (Thάm=S), built various strongholds to express their power.According to historical sources the Hunza rulers initially resided in the Altit Fort, but later as a result of a conflict between the two sons of the ruler Sultan, Shah Abbas (Shάboos) and Ali Khan (Aliqhάn), Shaboos shifted to the Baltit Fort, making it the capital seat of Hunza. The power struggle between the two brothers eventually resulted in the death of younger one, and so Baltit Fort further established itself as the prime seat of power in the Hunza state.

The rich beauty of Baltit Fort can be traced to over seven hundred 700 years ago. Ayasho II, Tham / Mir of Hunza in the early 15th fifteenth century married Princess Shah Khatoon (Sha Qhatun) from Baltistan (In Moghul history Baltistan is called Tibet Khurd mean, little Tibet), and was the first to modify the face of Altit and, subsequently Baltit Fort. Baltistan meaning land of Balti people had a very strong cultural and ethnical relation with the Ladakh territory of India then. Consequently, the structure of Baltit Fort was influenced by the Ladakhi / Tibetan architecture, with some resemblance to the Potala palace in Lahasa. Then additions, renovations and changes to the building were being made through the centuries by the long line of rulers of the Hunza that followed.

A veritable treasure house for ancient forts, the Northern Areas of Pakistan lost most of its glorious built heritage around the 19th century as a result of the destructive attacks by the Maharja.

However, in this regard people of Hunza were exceptionally fortunate to successfully defend against the invasions of Maharaja Kashmir four times. One of the biggest changes in the structure of Baltit Fort came with the invasion of British in December 1891. Tham / Mir Safdarali Khan, ruler of Hunza his wazir Dadu (Thara Baig III), fled to Kashgar (China) for political asylum with their fellows and families. With the conquest of Hunza and Nager states by the British forces in December 1891, the fortified wall and watch towers of the old Baltit village and watch towers of the Baltit Fort on its north-western end were also demolished as desired by the British authorities.

Mir Safdar Ali Khan in exile Yarkand China (d.1930) Courtesy: Prince Salim Khan    

Mir Azur Khan in exile Hari Parbat (Kashmir) Source: Baig

The British installed his younger brother Tham / Mir Sir Muhammad Nazim Khan K.C.I.E, as the ruler of Hunza state inSeptember 1892. During his reign, Tham / Mir Nazeem Khan made several major alterations to the Baltit Fort. He demolished a number of rooms of third floor and added a few rooms in the British colonial style on the front elevation, using lime wash and colour glass panel windows.Baltit Fort remained officially inhabited until 1945, when the last ruler of Hunza, Mir Muhammad Jmamal Khan, moved to a new palace further down the hill.

With no proper authority entrusted to care for it, the Fort was exposed to the ravages of time and over the years its structure weakened and began to deteriorate. His Highness Aga Khan IV initiated the restoration efforts for Baltit Fort in 1990, when Mir Ghazanfar Ali Khan the son of last ruler of Hunza, Tham / Mir Muhammad Jamal Khan and his family generously donated the Fort to the Baltit Heritage Trust, a public charity formed for the explicit purpose of owning and maintaining the Fort.

Sir Mir Muhammad Nazim Khan K.C.I.E & Khan Bahadur Wazir  Humayun Baig Dehli Darbar 1911 (Courtesy by: E.U.Baig)

Mir Mohd Jamal Khan (d. 1976)

Mir Ghazanfar Ali Khan (Current Chief Executive of N.A’s)

The restoration undertaken by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture in Geneva in association with the Aga Khan Cultural Service Pakistan (Pakistan), took six years to complete.
The project was supported by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture as the main donor through its Historic Cities Support Programme, as well as by the Getty Grant Program (USA), NORAD (Norway) and the French Government.  The restored Fort, resplendent in its regal glory was inaugurated on September 29, 1996 in the presence of His Highness the Aga Khan IV and the president of Pakistan Farooq Ahmad Khan Laghari. It is now operated and maintained by the Baltit Heritage Trust and is open to visitors. Preservation at its best, the Baltit Fort serves as a perfect example of culture restored and preserved for the future generations of the mountain people. 


ALTIT FORT

The valley's inhabitants are the Burusho — they claim to be the descendants of Greek soldiers who were part of Alexander the Great's army. The same is also commonly accepted about the Pakhtuns of Pakistan and Afghanistan. The people of the ancient city of Altit are said to be the descendants of the progressive agricultural Turkic tribe of Huns from the Persian Empire, A.D 47. It is believed that the first name of the city was Hunukushal, meaning the village of Huns. Considering their mixed ancestry, it is no wonder that the locals have such striking features.The great Altit Fort was built by the Mirs (ruling family) of Hunza as a display of power to the Mirs of Nagar (twin state) and has stood tall in front of Karakoram since the 11th century. Not only has it survived many attacks from aggressors but also withstood several earthquakes since it was built, perhaps making it one of the most astonishing architectural structures of its time. 

Interior of the great fort. These doors were purposefully built to be only five feet in length so that if the enemy was able to breach security, they would have to bend down to enter the fort hence making it easier for the guards to decapitate them

Keeping in mind the technology of the time, it is unthinkable that a task like this was even conceivable in the 11th century.The unique structure is over 1,000 feet above the Hunza River, and its only tower known as the shikari Tower (hunters' tower) was built strategically to monitor the entire land, especially during war time. The Hunza valley used to be under constant threat from Kaiven Rus (Russian) and Chinese troops of that time. Standing on top of the tower gave me an idea of how critically important its positioning was. With such high elevation, all of the surrounding mountains, woods and the river stream could be easily monitored, giving the army of Altit city a fair margin to prepare for their defense.

A view of the valley from a window of Altit Fort's tower. Intricate wood work, or at least what is left of it, can be seen

 The fort became controversial some 400 years after its construction. In late 1540’s a dispute between two royal brothers of Hunza’s royal family, Prince Shah Abbas, aka, Shabos, and Prince Ali Khan, saw the rise of another fort called the 'Baltit Fort' which soon became the new capital of Hunza. Prince Ali, the younger brother made Altit Fort his strong hold and launched offensives against his elder brother. Legend has it that Ali was buried alive against a pillar inside the watch tower by Shabos. 

The standing grave of Prince Ali Khan

In 1891, British forces marched on the streets of Altit, in an attempt to eliminate any potential Russian involvement in the region. As per British norms of occupation, Hunza remained in the hands of the trusted half brother of the ex-chief. Even after the Indo-Pak partition, Hunza was governed as a princely state but succession continued only till 1972, when socio-politic reforms took away power from the royal family. Altit Fort was later gifted to the Aga Khan Foundation in 1990. Their cultural service department has done a commendable job in restoring the fort which has been operating as a tourist museum since 2007.In its earlier days, the fort was surrounded by the settlers of the city and traders who would bring along goods from across the world making their way to the land from China through the ancient Silk route, and soon it became a cultural hub of the region. It is incredible to note that traces of ancient life are still evident in Altit Fort if looked at the lands from atop the shikari tower and took a stroll inside the fort. The skillfully crafted wooden doors, windows and stairs too have been restored to truthfully, albeit silently tell the centuries old stories that they have been witness to.

Pots used by the royal family

Kharpocho Fort

This fort dates back to 8th century CE. It was built by king Ali Sher at the end of 16th century. The fort was destroyed in 1857 under the leadership of Ranbir Singh. Due to its strategic location, Mughal emperor Aurangzeb also attempted to conquer the fort, but in vain.

Fort was built in such a way that an underground passage was made for the monarch’s fort in the downtown to this fort. The structure and location of the fort show that it was built exclusively for defensive purpose. This is because it is built on the top of a small hill which is surrounded by Indus River on one side and Skardu town on another side. If an attack was obstructed Raja of the state had to move there. Having Indus River on one side blocked the enemy’s entrance and hence Raja was protected and soldiers were to communicate through an underground passage. An ancient mosque in the fort attracts tourists, but it’s closed for praying visitors.

Khaplu Fort 

It has managed to impress us the most. An architectural marvel, it is located in Gilgit-Baltistan and is a major tourist attraction.

Khaplu Palace  (meaning "The fort on the roof"), is an old fort and palace located in Khaplu located in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of northern Pakistan. The palace, considered an architectural heritage and a tourist attraction, was built in the mid-19th century, replacing an earlier fort located nearby. It served as a royal residence for the raja of Khaplu.

From 2005 to 2011 the palace, having earlier stood in vulnerable conditions, underwent a restoration project carried out by the Aga Khan trust for culture. The palace now houses a hotel operated by Serena and a museum depicting the history and culture of Baltistan.

Ramkot Fort 

It is distinct among forts built in the Kashmir region due to its peculiar architecture

The fort is located on the confluence of Rivers Jhelum and Poonch, on a vertical cliff looking over the shiny blue waters. Due to its peculiar architecture, the Ramkot Fort is distinct amongst fortresses built in the Kashmir region. Identical to the architectural characteristics of the Mangla and Muzaffarabad Forts, Ramkot was very likely built in the same period.

To approach the fort, you have to take a boat from the water sports club at the Mangla Dam, which, after an almost 10-minute ride, would reach the northern extremity of the reservoir. Here, you will find a gigantic fort structure located on the summit of the hill.

A short but steep climb uphill takes you to the fort. This tricky location must have been a strategic plus point for this fort in the past, but these days, it has become the reason for its isolation and wilderness; unlike other spots at the Mangla Lake, few tourists choose to head over this way, quite possibly due to its distance and tough terrain.